"Many New Year's parties tonight. Matsuyama very busy," explained my friend Kurihara as he threaded his way through a maze of cars, pedestrians, bikers and shi-den (trolley cars). Indeed downtown Matsuyama, neon blazing, was doing a pretty good imitation of the West Village in New York on a Saturday evening. Kurihara's English is very limited but he always seems to be able to convey what he means if not in words then through a mixture of words and gestures punctuated by laughter. I learned that this was the evening that many groups such as teams or businesses had their annual parties which is why Kurihara, his friend Fuji-san, and I were on our way to the banquet of our Women's Volleyball League. He explains this will be a two-stage evening--dinner from 7-9 and then something fun that involves music from 9-12:30.
Actually, I thought it was a Women's Volleyball League because 80% of the players are women. But it's not. The league I joined turns out to be an offshoot of the local PTA and, not unlike PTA's in the U.S., the majority of members are mothers. The league is supervised by "Coach," a rollicking mountain of a Japanese man who clearly has some volleyball experience. He leads the intense one-hour work-outs prior to the games and then joins one team or another during the competition. I'm happy to report that my play so far, if not artful, has been acceptable and I can
still outjump some 5' 2" elementary school mothers (okay, not all.
Kurihara, still a virtual child of about 45, is the best player on the court. Having played softball and golf with him during my previous stay, I knew he was like a cat, very quick, strong and flexible. He hasn't lost too much over the intervening years even though he had a bout with stomach cancer in the interim. He lights up the volleyball court with his spirit. It is clear that the other PTA members adore him. As we enter the banquet room above a popular restaurant, people cheer when they see Kurihara come in. Alas, I see the one thing I don't like about Japan, a traditional low Japanese dinner table which means I'm going to be in pain one way or another for the next two hours or so. There is NO way I can get comfortable sitting on the floor; not even a cushion can solve the problem. However, I am buoyed by what I see ON the table--gyoza, fresh tako (octopus) fried chicken tenders, tofu in all sorts of guises, about 6 different kinds of vegetables and a squadron of Kirin Lager Big Boys. And that's just for starters....
About 25 PTA volleyball players wind up seated around this table. I should note that nobody's spouse is present. This is apparently more the rule than the exception in Japan. Apparently, you tend to socialize wth your friends, male or female, and you generally hang out with your spouse in family situations. The little I know of Japanese social customs, at least in Matsuyama, there seems to be a great premium placed on being a "team member," whether that be sports, games, or social groups. But I digress...and food is on the table. Forgive me...
In what I am learning is classic Japanese style, I am well taken care of, seated between Kurihara and the one woman in the league who can speak a little English, Ume-san. The meal commences with a few speeches, one by the league President, one by the Coach and as we all toast his words, the President is looking directly at me and Kurihara mutters, "Mistah Ken, speech now!" As Ume-san translated, I thanked them for the joy of letting me join and apologized profusely for my poor play so far and then, well, let the gyoza begin!
New platters appear every few minutes, some heaped with sweet and sour pork, others with tempura battered shrimp and vegetables. The Kirin Big Boys are decimated quickly but reinforcements arrive and many people are ordering strange-looking orange or blue or chartreuse drinks disguising Japanese vodka, my new friend Ume-chan informs me. Kurihara is enjoying a plum wine spritzer while the Coach at the other end of the table is turning rather red gesticulating in front of a team of empty Kirin Big Boys. Meanwhile, the people around me are asking me to guess their ages. Now there's a high-risk game--publicly guessing the ages of women whom you don't know in a foreign culture. They all look to be in their low 30's so I always guess high twenties and they turn out to be almost 40, most of them.
But before anybody grows any older, the party ends abruptly at 9:00 sharp, just as billed. Apparently two groups are forming. I ask Kurihara what's up and he says pointing to the Coach and a cluster around him, "Drinking group!" He then points to himself and says, "Singing group. Mistah Ken which one?" I ALWAYS choose music when confronted with this conundrum (I mean you can drink while you play, right?) And about 15 of us walk through the bustling streets towards the Four Roses Karoake Palace. I've passed this place dozens of times but never gone in. It is a building several stories high just filled with Karaoke studios Our group has rented a "VIP Lounge" which is a comfortable room containing a huge table in front of couches lining the
back wall, all aimed at a very large TV/sound system unit. There are several well-thumbed volumes of song titles, all numbered and one of them, Thank God, is in English. We have two hand-held wireless mikes and some gizmo that summons up the desired song. This thing has
another nice feature. You press a button and a waiter magically appears. This works pretty well because all of sudden there is an array of snacks on the table, lots of pastel colored drinks and some more Kirin Lager Big Boys.
It is situations like this that have finally gotten me to confront a small problem I have here, namely that I can't speak the language. It is really easy to enjoy life as what amounts to a music-playing sports monkey, but ultimately it is frustrating. So I'm taking my first official Japanese lesson tomorrow. I just want to be able to say a few things that come to mind here just about daily such as, "Temple, Shmemple, where is the fried Tako stand?" or "Thank you so much for this garish and useless trinket commemorating the lovely afternoon we have just
spent together" or "I am so unlucky man because my wife refuses to dust now that I have arrived," or perhaps, "Mr. Kurihara, why are you wearing bug antennae?"
In characteristic fashion, Kurihara has pulled out a headband to which are affixed long black antennae crowned with red balls. Look, I don't know either, so don't ask. He has also produced two "Chicken Shake" samba eggs that get tossed around the table depending upon who is
singing what.
Kurihara says, "Mistah Ken first song." I had been feverishly leafing through the English listings to find the PERFECT song. To my horror, there was no Beatles section, but there was the blessed Clapton in the "C" section, so I choose "Tears in Heaven" which I know many Japanese
people like. The screen flickers to life and there are the obligatory crazy images that characterize the videos that accompany the lyrics in Japanese Karaoke systems, a hallucinogenic mix of couples walking on sandy beaches being pelted by blue cartoon rain, people staring
wistfully at sunsets, butterflies all over the place, race cars, cows.... The familiar acoustic guitar lick kicks off "Tears in Heaven" and we're off. The system has super reverb (which of course is very forgiving if a singer goes a little flat or sharp) and you can sing as loud as you want because the little gizmo that orders the waiter also has a volume button. Everyone seems to like that song and I hand the mike to Takafuji-san, an ex-Buddhist monk who is now some sort of
businessman. He sings a very nutty Japanese hit that everybody (except me) knows all the words to. Then one of the women sings a wistful Japanese love song and hands the mike to Kurihara.
"Now Unchained Melody togezzer," he says as he takes one mike and hands me the other. He has a rich baritone voice right from the heart and he sure doesn't need me to sing this song which is his wife's favorite, but I think I know what he wants, namely for me to help him with that one really high note which blued-eyed Bobby Righteous hits in the end when he sings, "Are you still mine....? I-eeee NEEEEED your love." It works great. Kurihara sings, "Are you still mine....? I-eeeeeee......" Then I hit "NEEEEEED your love" right on the nose or close to it thanks to the reverb and he comes right back with "....God speed your love...." almost as if we have rehearsed it.
Everybody has sung at least one song when the door bursts open and the Coach lurches into the room bellowing. Everybody is delighted to see him. The gizmo is pressed. A huge orange drink appears and he throws me a mike, keeps one himself and starts a song that is in Japanese but
has English words in it. Everytime an English word appears I sing it and the Coach just thinks this is the funniest thing, shouting out, "Engrish coming. Engrish coming, Mistah Ken!"
With the Coach definitely in my corner I fulfill a lifelong dream and sing "Can't Help Falling in Love with You," the whole song, not just the first verse which is the only one I usually remember. Finally, it is time for the last song and I have a request. When last I was in Japan, Kurihara used to always sing "My Way" in Karaoke or live music situations. I had waited 8 years to hear this again. He looked serious all of a sudden and crossed his arms in front of his face in the universal gesture that means No, but with a little arm twisting, he agreed. The room quieted down, even Coach.
And Kurihara began to sing.... I believe we all were thinking the same thing, how he had fought cancer, "took the blows," as the song goes, and won. He rips off the bug antennae and throws them in the air as the music swells and he hits the final, triumphant, "I did it MY Way." And the room, silent throughout, erupted in applause as Kurihara, a little smile on his face, gently puts the microphone down. He's the kind of person you want on your team.